When we left the motel in Gatlinburg the sun was shining and the temperature was a pleasant 70°f. During the drive to Clingmans dome it started raining and the temperature dropped to 50°, making it even harder to get back on the trail. The wind gusted harder as Morris and I hiked up from the parking lot. Visibility fell to less than 100 yards so there were no beautiful vistas to see. I was Just slogging up and down hills in the mud and fog.
My mind felt tethered to Pam. Remembering warm embraces only made the chill wind seem that much colder. The weather forecast was calling for thunderstorms that night and into the next day so we hiked to the first shelter and stayed to ride out the storm.
Taking a zero day after only six miles back on the trail was disheartening to me. I began to wonder what I was doing out here. I mean why would I give up the comforts of modern life to torture myself out in the wilderness? I had not come close to giving up but I had once again forgotten my motivation. Some days I hike because that's what I'm here for, nothing more or less.
As we zeroed at the shelter a group of hikers 4 hikers came in to spend the night. One read aloud to us from the shelter registry. It was a story about when the BAMF (Bad Ass Mother Fuckers) crew climbed clingmans dome in a snowstorm. The story was a good one I later wished I had copied it to share. In short, it renewed my zest for the trail. I remembered when I was a BAMF, a time when I was much harder and less timid. Time and age, comfort and convenience, had softened me over the years. Although I appreciate the calming of my spirit, I am not pleased with the weakness in my body. I am not pleased with the insecurity I feel sometimes, the fear of the unknown. Questions arise like: what am I going to do after this? Where will I be? How will I support myself?
With a renewed spirit I could push these doubts aside. There is no need to worry about a future that is undetermined. I'll get by, I always have.
When we hit the trail the following morning, I felt great. It was good to put miles beneath my boots. Through those miles I contemplated the trail and what I was trying to accomplish by hiking it.
I thought of an analogy that describes it best for me. The trail is like a blacksmith. In the heat of the day I am fired in the forge. Climbing hills that heat me to the core. My feet pound the worn ground lie the incessant swing of a hammer. The cold nights quench my heat and temper me. Getting harder, sharper, brighter, with each successive day. My body is changing, I feel stronger than I have in many years.
I gained about 20 pounds before the hike, all of that is gone and then some. I have had to cut 4 new holes in my belt and will need to cut another in a couple days just to keep my pants from falling down. My muscles are toned and strong, it reminds me of the shape I was in while in the Army.
I feel mentally stronger as well. While I hike along I think of story lines for "The Girls of Ohmer" ( don't worry avid readers, I will continue where chapter 20 left off. www.thegirlsofohmer.blogspot.com for those who are curious)
I think about design elements for the guitars I will build. I plan the steps from planting gourds to the finished product. Step by step I build them in my mind, discovering potential problems and alleviating them before they can be. I have thought up innovations that I am excited to test out with the prototypes. Something about the physical act of hiking combined with the beauty of my surroundings, has charged my creativity. My mind is sharper than ever and I delight in the creative process as I trek along.
I have been carving woodspirits when we stop to camp. Initially I would burn them in the fire when they were complete but now I started leaving them in the shelters we stay at. Some people have requested to buy them, so I will soon begin selling them to support my progress to Maine.
It was good to get out of the Smokey mountains. They are indeed beautiful, and the last 2 days hiking there were the best I'd experienced so far, but the freedom to camp where ever I please was not available there.
After the Smokies we went to Standing Bear Farm Hostel. For $15 a night we got a warm bunk a hot shower and use of the kitchen and laundry. They have resupply there too. I bought snacks and beer for my stay but didn't need provisions.
As the sun went down we lit a fire and hung out talking and listening to a kid play guitar. I had a great time just chilling out and enjoying the atmosphere. (although I wish I had played guitar some)
The next day I wasn't eager to leave but Morris convinced me so we headed North again. It was a beautiful day for hiking and we both felt good to be back on the trail. As much as I wanted to stay, the loss in momentum would have been too great. It just feels like an accomplishment to get miles in every day.
We hiked to Beaver Creek Shelter and tented for the night. I found a spot tight next to the creek and went to sleep listening to the water flowing by.
The terrain from Beaver creek to max patch was steep and my energy was low, so we decided to make it a short 8.5 mile day to the first shelter.
I uploaded a bunch of pictures to my Facebook page. (Torrance Newark on FB ) check them out.
Then an 18 mile push to Hot Springs NC. Staying here a bit to wash clothes and charge batteries.
No comments:
Post a Comment