Gatlinburg TN

Waking up on the island was a blissful experience. The sun peeked over the mountains as a songbird sang good morning to me. The air was fresh and fragrant with the smell of pine needles. I sat in my tent catching up on my blog and feeling awesome. My ankle still ached when I moved it but the swelling didn't seem as pronounced.

I had fallen asleep the night before gazing up at the night sky. In The morning it was bright blue with just a few puffy white clouds. We took our time breaking camp and then just kinda sat around for a while. It was such a great place to be....just be. I didn't want to leave, but Maine was still over 2000 miles away so eventually I said goodbye to the island (my island) and we headed back to the trail.

We stopped at the trailhead to tear our permits in half and place the bottom portion in the appropriate box. We couldn't resist bitching about the fact that we had to register and pay $20 each to hike through American wilderness. That's not to mention all of the rules and restrictions that accompanied the permit requirement. No dogs allowed in the Smokey mountains. WTF!?!?! That just sucks! No tenting permitted unless the shelters are full, no tenting near the campfire. The bitch list goes on but I'm done bitching...for now.

The trail through the Smokeys has been steep. Did I say steep? I meant to say STEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP! The first day we hiked 5 miles. I was totally worn out. 11 miles the next day then the torturous 6 miles to derriks knob shelter.

I had been on the trail for 9 streight days and fatigue was setting in so I talked to Morris about taking a zero day in Gatlinburg TN.

He agreed and we decided to hitch in from Clingmans dome as the next road was closed due to a landslide. After about 8 cars we got a ride from a couple from New York who drove us all the way to Gatlinburg some 15+ miles away. We had a pleasant conversation though I was self-conscious about my "trail stench" as I sat in the back seat of their car.

They dropped us off at the edge of town and I went right to a gas station for a pack of smokes and a coke. Then we proceeded across the street to the outdoor center. There we saw Joe Cool and Plan B as we shopped for a new gas bottle for our stove. We called around and found a room for $30 a night.

Bales Motel in Gatlinburg TN is a nice place for the price. Huge rooms, very clean, and a pleasant courtious staff. We got our room and I immediately hit the shower.

We had been advised by some hikers on the strip that Shoneys was the place to go for dinner, so we walked down the strip to check out the buffet there.

Gatlinburg is culture shock after being in the wilderness for a week. It was Saturday night and all kinds of people were out and about. Apparently Morris was one of a kind as he attracted stares from just about everyone as we strode purposefully down the street amid the gawkers and tourists.

This place is like any tourist trap, lots of motels, trinket shops, attractions, and vendors. I don't dislike the atmosphere. The smells of candy apples, and fried food remind me of a carnival. The swarms of people eager to consume remind me of a time when I was part of the sleeping flock. That's not to say that I look down on them or pity them, to each his own. I do my share of wasting and consuming as well. It would be hypocritical of me to judge them. I just wonder how many of the masses here have toiled at jobs they hate to come here for just a few days of respite from the drudgery.

In this part of the country there is a different breed of American than you will find elsewhere. It is a microcosm. Tennessee has a different kind of "country people" than you'll find in Georgia, the Carolinas, or even Texas. You see it in their demeanor,  their dress, their expressions. Upscale Hillbilly with a dash of redneck, if that makes any sense to you. I don't know any other way to explain it.

Despite what may seem like disparaging comments about Gatlinburg, I'm staying here for a fourth zero day. It may be the relaxed atmosphere, great food, or awesome company, but I'm having the time of my life.

Some might say that I'm lallygagging, that we should be back on the trail and getting miles under our boots. My only response is that total freedom is the freedom to do whatever I want whenever I want to. I didn't come out here to be held to an itinerary, or to give up opportunities in order to adhere to a schedule.

I'll probably be back on the trail tomorrow morning. Probably.